With butterflies in my belly we made our way the short distance along the Dalmatian coast to the coastal town of Trogir, where we were to get our 1st visit in 6 months from my Mum along with her friend Denise. Our camp site Rozac is located on the small island of Ciovo, and with only one way in and out the drive was a little challenging in places as the traffic was backed up along route, making a super slimmed down version of the already narrow road. We finally arrived in the middle of an almighty storm. As it swept through the campsite, an avalanche of rain falling from the sky , thunder booming overhead and the angry waves smacking against the side of the boats, I had no choice but to face it head on and get out the warm comfort of Boris to reverse Paul into our spot, taking a pelting from falling branches and pine cones as I did so. The storm was so violent it ripped the roof off one of the sites mobile homes and brought down a tree. Fortunately we survived unscathed if a little soggy.This wasn’t the weather we’d ordered for my Mum!!!!
Fortunately the storm passed and although chilly (especially for those of us that are acclimatised) at least we could get out to meet my Mum as she arrived at her hotel which was located right in the centre of Trogir old town.
Trogir Old Town
Gorgeous Trogir is set within medieval walls on a tiny island, linked by bridges to both the mainland and Ciovo Island. The old town has retained many intact and beautiful buildings from its age of glory between the 13th and 15th centuries which have earned it World Heritage status. Of course it’s now a haven for tourists and the tiny narrow streets have been taken over by restaurants, bars and souvenir shops. The town also boasts a grand harbour not only attracting small Croatian cruise boats but also the super yacht’s of the rich.
£50 million super yacht belonging to entrepreneur Doug Barrowman
There’s a daily market in the square behind selling fresh local produce (at inflated tourist prices) along with the usual clothes and tat stalls. Still it gave us somewhere to wander on the not so sunny days we had.
As well as being able to explore Trogir during my Mum’s visit with good bus connections to Split we were able to have a day out in this beautiful ancient city. Croatia’s second-largest city, also spawns a Unesco World Heritage accreditation for the Diocletian’s Palace an impressive Roman monument. The city is buzzing and exuberant and you’ll find dozens of bars, restaurants and shops thriving amid the atmospheric old walls where Split life has been humming along for thousands of years.
To top it off, Split has a unique setting. Its dramatic coastal mountains act as the perfect backdrop to the turquoise waters of the Adriatic and help divert attention from the dozens of shabby high-rise apartment blocks that fill its suburbs. It’s this thoroughly lived-in aspect of Split that means it will never be a fantasy land like Dubrovnik, but you could argue that it’s all the better for that.
A weeks holiday wouldn’t of course be complete without a boat trip, so we secured a day trip to the “Blue Lagoon” which included fresh grilled mackerel and wine for lunch. We negotiated the price down to 170 Kuna each which is around £22 – well worth it too.
Blue lagoon day trip
This week though was about spending time with my gorgeous Mummy who I’ve spent the longest time apart from since I was born this year. Despite some dodgy weather forecasts we had a fabulous week catching up, which involved plenty of eating and drinking along the way.
Yep you guessed it lots of eating and drinking
Top Tips Trogir and around
- Campsite we stayed at Camping Rozac (GPS 43.505841 – 16.257645). This is an ACSI site which charges 19€ out of season. Note there is tax in addition to this. The site offers ACSI card holders access to pitches in Zone C only (water side pitches carry an extra charge). There’s a huge toilet and shower block with good clean facilities. Emptying and filling is all easily accessible. The washing machine (of which there’s only one) requires a token from reception which costs 40 K around 7 €. The site has a very good restaurant which is reasonably priced for the area and the food is good quality. We tried their Croatian speciality of Peka , and would highly recommend it, it’s a real treat. There’s also direct access from the site on to a private man made beach. Trogir is 2.2 km’s on foot but over a very steep hill and also down a busy road in parts. We only walked in daylight because of this. There’s a bus stop opposite but the most popular and convenient way of getting there is by Taxi boat. The charge is just 15k (2€) each way. The last boat back was at 10.30pm from Trogir in September. From the site you can also walk to the small village of Okrug Gornji about 1km away, it has a choice of beach bars and a handful of restaurants to choose from. NOTE the road in and out of this site can get very busy and is narrow in parts especially if faced with oncoming backed up traffic. Try and arrive and leave early to avoid this.
WARNING We prebooked camp Rozac and were asked to pay €25 in advance which we presumed was a deposit to secure our pitch, although when we paid we were told it was a reservation fee which was non refundable.
- Trogir Is made up of a warren of tiny alleyways leading to grand squares. It’s easily explored on foot and although you may walk around in circles a few times you can’t really get lost. Restaurants here are on the expensive side – local wine was around 17-18€ a carafe and main dishes were starting at around 14€ +. Note that most restaurants in Croatia do not include side dishes so these have to be added on.
- Split catch a bus from the main bus station on the edge of Trogir. There are 2 buses but its best to get the direct bus which takes around 40 minutes. You can pre-buy tickets at the ticket office before you go or if they have enough seats left then on the bus. The bus terminus is at Split bus station which is where you pick it up for the return. There’s an office there than you can get timetables from for the return journey. The cost varies dependant on the operator but was in the region of 3€ each way.